saldim-route-739599

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A mai ramas o zi pana la plecarea noastra in Himalaya. De fiecare data e diferit si cu fiecare expeditie ma simt tot mai binecuvantat sa am prilejul de a pasi deasupra norilor.

In aceasta expeditie, pornesc impreuna cu Zsolt Torok spre implinirea unui vis pe care l-am avut de mic copil, ascensiunea unei Premiere Mondiale in Himalaya.  E probabil una dintre cele mai mai mari provocari  de pana acum pentru mine. E fantastic sa ajungi acolo, unde nu a mai ajuns nimeni, sa descoperi necunoscutul in una dintre cele mai izolate zone ale Muntilor Himalaya. Am sentimentul ca vom explora una dintre putinele parti necunoscute ale planetei noastre in aceasta expeditie. Acest lucru ma face sa ma simt mic si umil in fata Creatiei lui Dumnezeu.

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 Expeditia actuala va avea o tinta deosebita, si anume un varf neurcat  de nici un om pana in prezent, atingerea varfului va fi considerata o premiera mondiala. Pentru noi ca si romani este o onoare si un privilegiu sa avem sansa unei ascensiuni pe un varf din Himalaya in premiera . In alpinism astfel de premiere sunt foarte rare in ziua de azi, insemnand in primul rand explorarea unui teren virgin si deschiderea unui traseu nou,  ascensiunea  fiind denumita  ca “first ascent”.Permisele pentru astfel de varfuri se dau foarte rar, iar obtinerea acestui permis e o sansa neasteptata din partea guvernului Nepalez.
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Aceasta expeditie poate fi o pagina importanta in alpinismul romanesc datorita obiectivului ales . Varful deocamdata are doar un numar de inregistrare , foarte probabil asa cum se obisnuieste in Himalaya, vom participa la denumirea acestui varf  . Varful se afla in regiunea Makalu -Barun  pe granita dintre Tibet si Nepal avand peste 6400m altitudine iar ascensiunea se va face pe traseu tehnic, in stil alpin cu un mimim de echipament.Nu vom folosi oxigen suplimentar si nici un fel de suport deasupra taberei de baza.
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Costurile si logistica in astfel de expeditii  sunt uriase. E vorba de costuri  seminificative pentru avion, elicopter, porteri,  bucatari , iaci, prognoza meteo , comunicare prin satelit , echipament tehnic si multe altele. Ma bucur ca in Romania  exista oameni si companii  autohtone care inteleg astfel de proiecte . Ei sunt cei care sustin performanta si depasire limitelor in astfel de expeditii. Suntem onorati sa avem increderea lor si sa ii reprezentam pe cei mai inalti muntii de pe planeta!
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EN
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There is one day until our departure in the Himalayas. Every time is different and  with every expedition I feel more blessed to have the opportunity to walk above the clouds in the highest mountains on our planet. In this expedition, i will start with Zsolt Torok towards the fulfillment of a dream i had as a child , climbing a world premiere in the Himalayas. It’s probably one of the biggest challenges so far for me. It’s fantastic to get there, where no one has gone before, to discover the unknown in one of the most remote areas of the Himalayas. I have a feeling that we will explore one of the few  unknown parts of our planet in this expedition. This makes me feel small and humble in front of God’s Creation.
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The current expedition will have a special target, a peak unclimbed by any person to date, reaching the peak will be considered a world premiere. For us, asa romanian team is an honor and privilege to have the chance of climbing a Himalayan summit for the first time. In climbing such attempts are very rare nowadays, meaning primarily to explore a virgin area and open a new route, the ascent being referred  as “first ascent” .The climbing Permit for such peaks are given rarely and obtaining this permit is an unexpected chance from the Nepalese government.This expedition can be an important page in Romanian mountain climbing due mainly to our objective.
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This Peak has only a registration number, probably as is customary in the Himalayas, we will participate in the nameing of this peak. This summit  is in  Makalu -Barun region on the border between Tibet and Nepal with over 6400m altitude. Our  Ascent will be on a technical route in alpine style with minimal equipment. We will not use supplemental oxygen and no support above the base camp.
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Costs and logistics in such quests are huge. It costs Considerable the airplane, helicopter, porters, cooks, yaks, weather, satellite communication, technical equipment and more. I am glad that in Romania there are people and domestic companies  who understand such projects. They are the ones that support performance and exceeding the limits in such expeditions. We are honored to have their confidence and to represent  them on the highest mountains on the planet!

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This expedition is sponsored by: SunGarden Resort & Hotels, Aegon , Ti Trust InvestCentrala de escalada,  Snowy Horizon , GravityNahanny,  GoPro Romania si EliteClimb Polonia.

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 Tamserku 2016 – Cholatse expediton

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